Picasso’s house, Moose’s leg / Casa de Picasso, pierna de Moose

La versión en español está después de la versión en inglés.

I happened to read an article the day after after my walk around the grounds of Sohail Castle (Thursday’s post). The latest archaeological discoveries indicate that Fuengirola was one of the main Roman trading points on the Costa del Sol. Marble floors, walls, and pedestals dating back to between the 1st and 3rd centuries have been found. And there’s more digging to be done.

I took the train into Málaga yesterday afternoon and visited the home of Pablo Ruiz Picasso, where he spent the first 10 years of his life. It’s a small, recently redone museum (ticket only €4, which included a visit to a special exhibit at a related gallery down the street). I thought it was well worth it, although perhaps a historic restoration of at least part of the apartment could have been interesting. The audio tour was excellent. And the art exhibited were things I’d never seen that gave me even more insight into Picasso’s gifts as an artist. I’ll share just a little of the art in the coming days. I began the visit on the ground floor in rooms filled with examples of his work and items of interest from the studio in which he studied as a child. Three British women arrived right behind me. One said, “Well, this is a lie. This is all modern. He couldn’t have grown up here.” Another said, “It’s now a museum. It doesn’t look the same.” The first one muttered, “Well, I like old. Let’s move on.” I was happy to see the back of her.

I believe they had come off one of possibly three cruise ships in port. The city was filled with groups hustling around the city trying to take it all in before their scheduled departures. Tomorrow will welcome six cruise ships to Málaga. It changes things.

And then there were the two English women who got on the train to Málaga a few stations after me. A mother and adult daughter. Whether we all agree it’s necessary or not, masks are still required on public transportation in Spain. The daughter said to the mother, “We need to put our masks on.” Mother loudly snapped, “Why on earth?!?” The daughter said, “It’s required.” “Well, when did that change?” mother again snapped, making no move to put on her mask. I butted in and said, “It’s been required since the start. We look forward to the day it’s not.” Without looking at me, she said, “Ridiculous.” The daughter laughingly poked her and said, “Mum,” and she grudgingly put on her mask. The daughter and I shared a private smile. I felt sorry for her. It wasn’t a good day for the British.

I decided to finish with a smile and a Spanish cat. Moose while he slept and we watched.


Leí un artículo al día siguiente de mi paseo por los terrenos del Castillo Sohail (publicación del jueves). Los últimos descubrimientos arqueológicos indican que Fuengirola fue uno de los principales puntos comerciales romanos de la Costa del Sol. Se han encontrado suelos, paredes y pedestales de mármol que datan de entre los siglos I y III. Y hay más excavaciones por hacer.

Tomé el tren a Málaga ayer por la tarde y visité la casa de Pablo Ruiz Picasso, donde pasó los primeros 10 años de su vida. Es un museo pequeño, renovado recientemente (entrada de solo 4 €, que incluía una visita a una exposición especial en una galería relacionada al final de la calle). Pensé que valía la pena, aunque tal vez una restauración histórica de al menos una parte del apartamento podría haber sido interesante. La audioguía fue excelente. Y el arte exhibido eran cosas que nunca había visto que me dieron aún más información sobre los dones de Picasso como artista. Compartiré solo un poco del arte en los próximos días. Comencé la visita en la planta baja en salas repletas de ejemplos de su obra y elementos de interés del estudio en el que estudió de niño. Tres mujeres británicas llegaron justo detrás de mí. Una dijo: “Bueno, esto es una mentira. Todo esto es moderno. No podría haber crecido aquí.” Otra dijo: “Ahora es un museo. No se ve igual.” La primera murmuró: “Bueno, me gusta el antiguo. Vamonos.” Estaba feliz de ver la espalda de ella.

Creo que habían salido de uno de los posibles tres cruceros en el puerto. La ciudad estaba llena de grupos que se apresuraban por la ciudad tratando de asimilarlo todo antes de sus salidas programadas. Mañana recibirán seis cruceros en Málaga. Cambia las cosas.

Y luego estaban las dos inglesas que subieron al tren a Málaga unas estaciones después de mí. Una madre y una hija adulta. Ya sea que todos estemos de acuerdo en que es necesario o no, todavía se requieren máscarillas en el transporte público en España. La hija le dijo a la madre: “Tenemos que ponernos las máscarillas”. La madre espetó en voz alta: “¿¡Por qué diablos!?” La hija dijo: “Es necesario”. “Bueno, ¿cuándo cambió eso?” la madre espetó de nuevo, sin hacer ningún movimiento para ponerse la máscarilla. Me metí y dije: “Ha sido requerido desde el principio. Esperamos el día en que no lo sea”. Sin mirarme, dijo: “Ridículo”. La hija la empujó entre risas y dijo: “Mamá”, y ella se puso la máscarilla a regañadientes. La hija y yo compartimos una sonrisa privada. Sentí pena por ella. No fue un buen día para los británicos.

• The living room and dining room.
• El salón y el comedor.
• By José Ruiz y Blasco, father of Pablo Ruiz Picasso. The virgin moved with the family throughout the years.
• Por José Ruiz y Blasco, padre de Pablo Ruiz Picasso. La virgen se mudó con la familia a lo largo de los años.
• Pablo Picasso’s childhood toys. He obviously treated them well.
• Los juguetes de la infancia de Pablo Picasso. Obviamente los trató bien.
• Plaza de la Merced, middle, and Gibralfaro (castle) in background.
• Plaza de la Merced, en medio, y Gibralfaro al fondo.
• I decided to finish with a smile and a Spanish cat. Moose while he slept and we watched.
• Decidí terminar con una sonrisa y un gato español. Moose mientras dormía y nosotros observábamos.

Click the thumbnails.
Haz clic en las miniaturas.

Author: Moving with Mitchell

From Brooklyn, New York; to North Massapequa; back to Brooklyn; Brockport, New York; back to Brooklyn... To Boston, Massachusetts, where I met Jerry... To Marina del Rey, California; Washington, DC; New Haven and Guilford, Connecticut; San Diego, San Francisco, Palm Springs, and Santa Barbara, California; Las Vegas, Nevada; Irvine, California; Sevilla, Spain. And Fuengirola, Málaga..

30 thoughts on “Picasso’s house, Moose’s leg / Casa de Picasso, pierna de Moose”

  1. Fuengirola was “an early Phoenician settlement, later occupied by the Romans, which became a town known in antiquity as Suel”, indeed. According to Wikipedia, the “temple portico” on the Paseo near you in Los Boliches is actually an original (unfinished) Roman construction, unearthed and reassembled in the 80s.

    Some tourists give us Brits as bad name. Jx

    1. Jon:
      The portico on the Paseo came from what is now a park just a few minutes walk from us. Roman baths, fish salting plant, tile factory, and villa. Venus of Fuengirola was found there and is on display in the visitors centre.

      1. Chrissoup:
        And these two only dream of chunk white tuna in spring water.

  2. Except for locals who fleece the tourists, no one seems to like cruise ships in town for the day. I look forward to cruising again.

    1. David:
      Except for being on the open sea, it’s not for me. I hope it’s good money for local businesses and worth the infrastructure costs.

  3. Some people need a course in how to be good guests.

    I’ve never been a huge Picasso fan, but that looks like an interesting museum. I’m impressed they have so many of his toys! I’m not sure I have that many of MY toys anymore. (Though I do have a few.)

    1. Steve:
      I have always loved Picasso and have grown to appreciate him even more since moving here. He was so young when he became obsessed with art that I have a feeling his toys didn’t get as much use as ours might have. Most of my toys were handed down to my brother. Few survived those years!

      1. Chrissoup:
        The oil painting of the port astounds me. Only 7-9 years old.

  4. Interesting that Picasso’s father was an artist too! I would gladly visit that museum. The building looks beautifully restored. And that video of Moose is so funny! I wonder if he’s dreaming while he does that?

    1. Debra:
      His father was a gifted artist, but very traditional unlike Pablo. He taught at the School of Fine Arts where Pablo studied for a while.

      Maybe Moose is dreaming of going for a swim in the Mediterranean Sea. He also talks in his sleep. It’s entertaining,

  5. Ah, Moose! The last few times I slept like that, BH thought it was an invitation! Made for some very interesting wake up calls.

      1. Mistress Borghese:
        A good excuse. I’m going to start sleeping in that position myself.

  6. Moose is such a card! If he’s been neutered, perhaps he’s dreaming about his surgery? If not, then you know what he’s really dreaming about, LOL!

  7. I enjoy watching my pets sleep, but I find it a little disconcerting when they watch me. I wonder what Moose was dreaming about…

    1. Kelly:
      Moose also talks in his sleep. And, yes, it is so strange to wake up to find Dudo staring at me.

  8. Oh Mitchell, thanks for the Picasso tour!!!! What a magnificent building. That is something I wouldn’t mind seeing someday. And Moose’s feet….both Buster and Lillith lay the same way some days. It cracks me up.

    1. Mistress Borghese:
      I learn more about Picasso all the time and see works I’d never seen. This is a very small museum collection, but worth the €4. I love returning to the main Picasso Museum regularly. Moose is often on his back. The leg movement was something we hadn’t witnessed before.

  9. That woman probably complains about tourists visiting her town or city. You know, how they’re loud and impolite and don’t think the rules should apply to them.

    1. Walt the Fourth:
      You’re so right. I was in line at the supermarket the other day behind another English woman. She had a haughty demeanour. When the cashier told her the total in Spanish, she barked: “English!” The cashier complied but she and I gave each other the raised eyebrow look and then smiled. And I must add, there are many very nice British tourist and expats here.

  10. Tourists! I don’t encounter any here. People want to visit other parts of Florida. I confess I’m not a Picasso fan, but my daughter and I did see an interesting exhibit at the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art about the Stein family collecting early Picassos.


    1. janiejunebug:
      Oh, the art the Steins collected. Just amazing. Imagine being a part of that. I have always loved Picasso’s work and have grown to appreciate it even more since living here. We have often lived in tourist meccas. So, we should be used to it by now. But the cruise ship passengers overwhelm a city very quickly.

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