Purple People Eaters

I don’t know what we were thinking. I take that back. I know precisely what we were thinking. We were thinking of churros y chocolate. What we were forgetting was that there are 2 million people in Sevilla this week. And 61 processions — some with thousands of participants — filling the streets 24 hours a day. Given the relative calm of our own plaza, we were lulled into a false sense of serenity.


We decided to go out for a healthy walk in the evening, to culminate in an unhealthy dose of churros and hot chocolate. As we began to near Calle Reyes de Los Catolicos, the street that leads to Valor, the café with exceptional churros and chocolate (and also to our old churros stand), the streets grew more crowded. We reached our turn only to find ourselves stuck in the middle of another procession. Except for the corps of Roman soldiers and the thousands of purple-clad penitents, this was nothing new. We’ve seen two processions walk right by our house. No need to linger long on the float that had just passed bearing Jesus or the one near the end with Mary. Just give us our churros and chocolate.
We couldn’t turn left to get to Valor; that would carry us in the same direction as the procession and the thousands of onlookers. So we turned right, fighting the tide, to reach the churros stand by the river. By the time we got there, the procession had passed and we made it to the crowded counter to place our order. We stood at a tall table and enjoyed our well-earned treat as the skies again threatened rain.


Afterward, we got off the main thoroughfare as quickly as we could and we wound our way home through the backstreets, sheltering under an awning during a brief downpour. Ten minutes later we were relieved to lock our door to the outside world — especially to the Roman soldiers and Purple Penitents.

Author: Moving with Mitchell

From Brooklyn, New York; to North Massapequa; back to Brooklyn; Brockport, New York; back to Brooklyn... To Boston, Massachusetts, where I met Jerry... To Marina del Rey, California; Washington, DC; New Haven and Guilford, Connecticut; San Diego, San Francisco, Palm Springs, and Santa Barbara, California; Las Vegas, Nevada; Irvine, California; Sevilla, Spain. And Fuengirola, Málaga..

18 thoughts on “Purple People Eaters”

    1. Jim:
      The crowds were oppressive. The chocolate helped, but we won't be doing that again until the Semana Santa tourists leave! which means, we can head back out tomorrow… 😉

    1. Scott:
      Oh, those crowds are not for us! We now understand why one of our local friends told us it would be nice to just hide inside for the week… although I hear a marching band in the distance right now… and I don't want to miss anything… Never mind!

  1. Look Caiaphas, they're right outside our yard.
    Quick Caiaphas, go call the Roman guard.

    No, wait!
    We need a more permanent solution to our problem.
    Churros and Chocolate!

  2. Where's the photograph with all heads turned towards you as you scale a lamp-post and shout "For the love of God, get out of my way – I need CHOCOLATE"?

  3. Facinating to see, particularly after I just finished a history course which included the Spanish inquisition. Purple pointed hoods still give me the heebie jeebies.

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