La versión en español está después de la versión en inglés.
The Spanish word paso has several meanings. One common meaning is “step.” A paso during Holy Week (Semana Santa) is a float depicting one of the notable events in the Passion of Christ. Don’t ask me what those notable events were. I know some by osmosis after living as long as I have. Others, I have no clue. But the pasos of Semana Santa can be true works of art and artisanship, amazingly ornate, and beautifully adorned.
Today’s title means “What happened on the float.” Here, in photos, are the people and pasos I saw on Monday. There are many Catholic brotherhoods in the city and each is responsible for one of the processions during Semana Santa. This procession, one of the most impressive, is by the Hermandad la Estrella de Córdoba (Star of Córdoba Brotherhood).
The procession began at 4:15 p.m. and finished after 1:30 a.m. I might try and catch another paso at night. If the wind isn’t blowing, the tall candles will all be lit, which makes for a magical passing. The candle wax drips all over the pavement and kids follow along collecting the wax into balls. That looks like fun. For several hours after, when vehicles pass by, the pavement squeaks. Then the cleaners come through and thoroughly remove all the wax.
Meanwhile, San Geraldo and I are off to La Popina for morning coffee and, probably, second breakfast. Merchi is in the house. Moose is still not too sure about her. Her first week here, she moved the cat tree in SG’s office, so she could clean the windows. Moose was still on it. She talked nicely to him. He growled and, when that didn’t work, he hissed. So unlike Moose. She just kept talking sweetly and did what she needed to do. I think he expected her to run. When she didn’t, he stayed put and watched her work. Dudo has no problem. She gave them treats. Once. That’s all it takes.
The Kid Brother was fine last night. WhatsApp was working for him, surprisingly, so we had a great video chat. He had a 136 average at bowling this week. All is well in his world.
Un paso durante Semana Santa representa uno de los eventos notables de la Pasión de Cristo. No me pregunten cuáles fueron esos eventos notables. Conozco algunos por experiencia propia después de vivir tanto tiempo. De otros, no tengo ni idea. Pero los pasos de Semana Santa pueden ser verdaderas obras de arte y artesanía, increíblemente ornamentados y bellamente adornados.
Aquí, en fotos, están las personas y los pasos que vi el lunes. Hay muchas hermandades católicas en la ciudad y cada una es responsable de una de las procesiones durante Semana Santa. Esta procesión, una de las más impresionantes, es de la Hermandad de la Estrella de Córdoba.
La procesión comenzó a las 16:15 y terminó después de la 1:30. Quizás intente ver otro paso por la noche. Si no sopla el viento, todas las velas altas estarán encendidas, lo que crea una transición mágica. La cera gotea por toda la acera y los niños la siguen, haciendo bolitas. Parece divertido. Durante varias horas, al pasar los vehículos, la acera cruje. Entonces vienen los limpiadores y retiran toda la cera a fondo.
Mientras tanto, San Geraldo y yo nos vamos a La Popina a tomar el café de la mañana y, probablemente, el segundo desayuno. Merchi está en casa. Moose todavía no está muy segura de ella. Durante su primera semana aquí, movió el árbol para gatos de la oficina de SG para poder limpiar las ventanas. Moose seguía usándolo. Le hablaba con cariño. Él gruñía y, cuando eso no funcionaba, silbaba. Tan diferente de Moose. Ella simplemente seguía hablándole con dulzura e hizo lo que tenía que hacer. Creo que él esperaba que corriera. Cuando no lo hizo, se quedó quieto y la observó trabajar. Dudo no tiene ningún problema. Les dio golosinas. Una vez. Eso es todo.
El Hermanito estuvo bien anoche. WhatsApp funcionaba, así que tuvimos una videollamada genial. Tuvo un promedio de 136 en bolos esta semana. Así que todo bien.
• La multitud reunida.
• Los costaleros son los que van al frente. Cargan los pesados pasos sobre sus hombros, sobre varas. Puede haber entre 28 y 60 costaleros por paso. Se les releva y otros toman el relevo durante toda la procesión. Por lo tanto, una procesión requiere cientos de costaleros. Consideran un privilegio participar. En esta procesión, los costaleros estaban bajo los pasos, ocultos tras gruesas telas.
• Miembros de la Guardia Civil.
Click the thumbnails to enlarge.
Haz clic en las miniaturas para ampliar.
The pageantry is lovely. Thank you for sharing. Here there seems to be little to celebrate the joy of the season (Easter or Spring), with such color and vibrancy. I guess the weather in the PNW doesn’t really encourage it either. Olivia
Olivia,
But it’s near the Emerald City!
Those centurions on the paso look like they’ve come straight from the Folie Bergere! Jx
Jon,
Should I ask?
Wow, those parades last a long time. As a retired teacher, I immediately think of students. They must be on break this week with all of the celebrations going on? The hats in the last photos look like take out containers to me.
Michael:
Those hats always strike me as funny. Yes, the kids are on break I think. When we lived there, Seville had 67 processions during the week of Semana Santa. One of the processions lasted more than 13 hours and had more than 600 participants (not even counting all the costaleros). At least that’s what I remember.
I was wondering about all that feathery plumage on the helmets of the Roman soldiers too. And wow, all those candles around the Virgin Mary! I can see why dripping candle wax could be an issue.
Debra:
So many things I would never have thought of. I would love to follow behind and collect the wax. And the flowers! Can you imagine the cost of those alone?
I can see where all the wax comes from and I’m stunned the parades last so long!
Bob:
They must be exhausted after all the prep, practice, and final processions. Some of the penitents even parade barefoot!
So much to watch and enjoy, wish I was there. Chuck’s average is higher than mine.
David:
You would absolutely love this. As for Chuck, he’s bowled over 200 several times. Like me, he lacks consistency. My average was always just below 160. I’d bowl a series like 210, 98, and 175!
I just…I just can’t. I wonder how much money and how many man (and woman) hours these things take every year. It is truly mind-boggling. I wonder what poor old Jesus would think.
Ms. Moon, the Disbeliever
Ms. Moon:
I wonder what poor old Jesus would think, too. It’s very difficult to avoid thinking that way. It’s magnificent and appalling.
Oh, my goodness, Mitchell! Wowweeeee! You must have gotten the best photos of anyone! These are fantastic, and it’s fun knowing that you are getting to see a new city’s Semana Santa processions.
I’m so glad to hear that Chuck’s Whats App was working 🙂
Judy C:
Thanks! It helps that I’m taller than the majority. I’ve been told to head out tomorrow to catch the procession that includes the Spanish Foreign Legion. Here’s hoping it doesn’t rain!
Look at all that gold! Right out of a Trump wet dream
Kirk:
I had the same thought! 😀
Now some of those floats, especially the one you feature in the first photo, has to be the most elaborate float I think I have ever seen. And 4:15 till after one in the morning? My God that’s almost as bad as the Mummers Parade.
So impressive! Imagining all the work and energy put into these processions.
Jim:
Yes, they work for months, even an entire year to prepare.
Thanks for the details on the floats. I knew they had to be heavy and have often wondered if one had ever gone down. All that swaying could get disorienting. Surely if one person stumbled, there are enough others to keep things going. Fascinating about the candles and wax, too. I hope you can get some night photos for us.
Kelly:
It takes careful coordination and training to move one of those things. They are mostly walking blind with sometimes a ton of weight across all their shoulders. I’ve never seen one come down but it must have happened at some time. No rain today, so I plan to find the legionnaires.
She moved the cat tree while Moose was on it? If so, I don’t blame him for hissing at her! The nerve!!
Jennifer
Jennifer:
I had told her how gentle they were and she has no fear. But Moose surprised us both. Still, she handled it well.