La versión en español está después de la versión en inglés.
In the 1st century A.D., Hercules founded Córdoba and, after being conned by a young Segovian, the devil built the aqueduct (all according to legend, of course). The devil did such a good job that the aqueduct was still in use in 1973, having been partially reconstructed in the 15th century.
There remain two original niches from the initial construction. In the 16th century, a statue of St. Stephen was placed in one while the Virgin was placed in the other, which is where a statue of Hercules originally stood. St. Stephen is gone but the Virgin is still there. The construction is unmortared granite blocks (dry stack). Roman engineering was astounding.
In 2019, a light-hearted statue of the devil holding a smart phone for a selfie was created (and donated by the artist, José Antonio Abella) to attract tourists to a less-trodden but beautiful and historic part of the city overlooking the aqueduct. Some locals went to court to stop the installation saying it was an attack on religious sentiments. They lost. The artist said he was inspired by a visit to Lübeck, Germany, where local legend told that the devil was duped into helping build a church; there was a statue there dedicated to the legend (click here).
Ironically, given the contemporaries who fought the placement, the devil sits next to the former headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition in the city. I wonder if those residents would have welcomed its return.
We went to our new favorite place for coffee and second breakfast this morning. We’ve now met three staffers, Álvaro, Alfonso, and Manuel. All handsome, compact, dark-haired, charming, kind 20-somethings. They’re already making us feel like family and improve our day. Alfonso asked me today what fragrance I use because he said he immediately noticed last week how good I smell. If you’re wondering, it’s Jean Paul Gautier Elixir. I have always sprayed my cologne under my arms. That way, when I sweat (excuse me, perspire) I smell like my cologne. This wouldn’t work for everybody. My pits have no sensitivity to the alcohol.
Speaking of armpits, Manuel told me today that many beaches are known during summer as “playas del sobaco” (armpit beaches) because they’re so packed in July and August that people are forced to stand or sit shoulder-to-shoulder, constantly keeping their arms raised (“raising their armpits”) to avoid touching their neighbors. Manuel thinks it’s also because people from Córdoba are always waving to each other in Fuengirola.
The temperature will hover close to 40˚C/104˚F again today. We look forward to one day of refreshment tomorrow when the temperature is supposed to drop to a cool 32˚C/90˚F. Unfortunately, the humidity is supposed to be around 57 percent, which is high for here.
En el siglo I d. C., Hércules fundó Córdoba y, tras ser engañado por un joven segoviano, el diablo construyó el acueducto (según la leyenda, claro). El diablo hizo un trabajo tan bueno que el acueducto seguía en funcionamiento en 1973, tras haber sido parcialmente reconstruido en el siglo XV.
Se conservan dos nichos originales de la construcción inicial. En el siglo XVI, se colocó una estatua de San Esteban en uno, mientras que la Virgen se situó en el otro, donde originalmente se encontraba una estatua de Hércules. San Esteban ya no está, pero la Virgen permanece allí. La construcción se realizó con bloques de granito sin argamasa (apilado en seco). La ingeniería romana era asombrosa.
En 2019, se creó (y fue donada por el artista José Antonio Abella) una estatua desenfadada del diablo sosteniendo un teléfono inteligente para tomarse una selfie, con el fin de atraer turistas a una zona menos transitada pero hermosa e histórica de la ciudad con vistas al acueducto. Algunos lugareños acudieron a los tribunales para detener la instalación, alegando que era un ataque a los sentimientos religiosos. Perdieron. El artista dijo que se inspiró en una visita a Lübeck, Alemania, donde la leyenda local cuenta que el diablo fue engañado para ayudar a construir una iglesia; allí había una estatua dedicada a esa leyenda (haz clic aquí).
Irónicamente, teniendo en cuenta a los contemporáneos que se opusieron a su ubicación, el diablo se encuentra junto a la antigua sede de la Inquisición española en la ciudad. Me pregunto si aquellos residentes habrían recibido con agrado su regreso.
Esta mañana fuimos a nuestro nuevo lugar favorito para tomar café y un segundo desayuno. Ya conocimos a tres empleados: Álvaro, Alfonso y Manuel. Todos guapos, compactos, morenos, encantadores y amables, de veintitantos años. Ya nos hacen sentir como en familia y nos alegran el día. Alfonso me preguntó hoy qué perfume uso porque dijo que la semana pasada notó de inmediato lo bien que huelo. Si te lo preguntas, es Jean Paul Gautier Elixir. Siempre me he rociado la colonia en las axilas. Así, cuando sudo (perdón, transpiro) huelo a mi colonia. Esto no funcionaría para todos. Mis axilas no son sensibles al alcohol.
Hablando de axilas, Manuel me contó hoy que muchas playas se conocen en verano como “playas del sobaco” porque en julio y agosto están tan llenas que la gente se ve obligada a estar de pie o sentada hombro con hombro, con los brazos constantemente levantados (“levantando las axilas”) para evitar tocar a los demás. Manuel cree que también se debe a que los cordobeses siempre se saludan con la mano en Fuengirola.
Hoy la temperatura rondará los 40°C/104°F. Mañana disfrutaremos de un día más fresco, con un descenso previsto de la temperatura hasta los 32°C/90°F. Lamentablemente, se espera una humedad de alrededor del 57%, un nivel elevado para esta zona.
• Ella solía ser Hércules.
• Plaza Artillería (también conocida como Acueducto Oriental) donde se ubicaba nuestro hotel.
• Lado oeste del acueducto.
• Plaza del Azoguejo. Perdí la oportunidad de subir las escaleras para disfrutar de una vista desde arriba.
• Sí que saqué una foto de nos dos, pero me salió mal. La placa junto a la estatua dice Aqvaedvcti Artifex, que en latín significa Constructor/Creador del Acueducto.
• Esto fue tomado después de mi trato con el diablo.
• Vista desde nuestra habitación la mañana del domingo. El diablo está sentado en el muro de enfrente, fuera de la vista, en el extremo derecho.
Click the thumbnails to enlarge.
Haz clic en las miniaturas para ampliar.
It never fails to amaze me how things like the aqueduct were built so precisely and so tall without machinery. Stunning, too, that they’re still standing.
I have a co-worker who told me one day that I smelled good and asked what it was and I said, “Soap, I just heard about it and started using it.”
Bob:
Soap? I should try that some time, if I ever run out of cologne.
I loves me a good aqueduct!
wickedhamster:
So do I. I grew up not far from Aqueduct Racetrack.
What a ‘presence’ the aqueduct makes. And the fact that it is still around!
Jim:
It’s magnificent. Incredible to consider it was still in use when we were already adults.
Those ancient aqueducts are wonderful to see. I’ve been to the Pont du Gard in Provence, such an experience. Built to last;).
That humidity would be a relief here in July, when it’s often much higher; not yet though, I love June.
Boud
Boud:
I usually love June, too. This has been a rough one around Europe.
Impressive. There was a section of an old aqueduct in the area of Portugal I visited. Why is it so tall though? I doubt people today could build that without the aid of modern machinery.
ellen abbott:
I’ve been reading up on how it was built.
Is a tourist with a phone, the devil in disguise? Great aqueduct, you could spend a decade documenting the Roman remains.
David Godfrey:
When I came upon the statue, I knew nothing about it and I had the same thought about tourists.
The armpit beaches story is hilarious 🙂
I love that aqueduct! Wow. What amazing construction. And, what a nice waiter, to remark on how nice you smell –ha! I should have thrown that into my banter back when I was a server in my college years 😉 (but, I probably never had anyone who smelled as good as your armpits apparently do;) )
Judy C:
I was pleased when Alejandro commented on how good I smelled. My body does good things with fragrances and, although I don’t dowse myself, I’ve always received compliments on how good I smell. A couple of times, women I worked with bought my fragrance (at the time it was Royal Copenhagen Musk) for the men in their lives only to complain after that they smelled nothing like me.
Keep safe ….and cool
finlaygray:
Only 22 right now. I need to get outside.
The photo of the night sky behind the aqueduct is amazing. I sort of love that devil. I think Christians should be more appreciative of the devil. Without him, they wouldn’t need their religion.
Well. It’s a theory.
That Virgin Mary looks uncomfortably out of place in that niche, don’t you think?
Ms. Moon
Mary Moon:
Too bad Hercules was lost to history.
“What have the Romans ever done for us?”
What a breath-taking construction – and still in use until the 1970s?! Why on earth did it cease, I wonder? Jx
Jon:
Modern pollution and traffic vibrations apparently were too much for the aqueduct.
I’d also have wanted a selfie of myself with the devil taking a selfie. I’d also likely have screwed it up too. At any rate, that’s almost endearing. I like it!
Be well, Mitchell.
I think that devil statue is hilarious. (and cute!)
Kelly:
I loved the devil statue.
What a jolly-looking Devil!
Kirk:
Yes. Well done.
Still in use up to 1973? WOW!!! Great photos!
Rade:
Isn’t that amazing?
I can appreciate a nice-smelling man, provided that there’s only a whisper of a nice cologne or aftershave. I believe one should have to be within hugging distance to detect a man’s scent or it’s too much. I’m sure you smell great!
I adore that Devil taking a selfie! Ha!
Jennifer
Jennifer,
Whenever someone at work told me I smelled good I worried I was wearing too much, but I was always told no.
The aqueduct reminds me a bit of the Pont du Gard in Avignon, France. Your armpit/beach story was sure interesting. I bet the beaches do get very crowded in the summer. Try to stay cool!
Michael,
Having grown up near the Coney Island beaches, Fuengirola’s beaches, although busy, never compared. In Coney Island you had to step on people’s towels to get down to the water. There was almost no sand left exposed.
I don’t think I would be a fan of being that crowded on the beach.
I can’t believe people would oppose that devil statue. Evidently they have too much time on their hands and not enough to worry about.
Steve:
I wonder what would happen now if someone decided to erect a comical devil statue in Florida or Arkansas.
Very impressive work the Romans did here. Love the Devil.
larrymuffin:
I marvel at the abilities of the ancient Romans. Too bad about the crazies in charge over the years.
I want this statue.
Urspo:
I liked it. I never went into any souvenir shops. I wonder if they have reproductions of it.