Bullfight, Inquisition, Ole / Corridas, Inquisición, Ole

La versión en español está después de la versión en inglés.

The other evening, San Geraldo had a massage scheduled about 10 minutes from us, so I decided to walk there with him, explore the neighborhood for a couple of hours, and then meet for dinner. Nearby was the Plaza de la Corredera, the only rectangular main square in Andalusia. What a claim to fame.

The first square was built there in the 14th century, but the current square wasn’t built until 1683. One large and beautiful building was originally a prison combined with the mayor’s house. Then it was a hat factory. In 1873 it was turned into a public food market. That was closed in 1951 due to poor hygienic conditions and it reopened some years later.

Joyful and historic celebrations were held in the square over the centuries. It was also home to bullfights. Oh, and public executions during the Spanish Inquisition (and a few after). It’s estimated that there were 40 executions between 1639 and 1739, and between 1810 and 1812 perhaps 76 people died by hanging or garrote. The last execution was in 1838. The last bullfight took place in 1846, but that’s only because a new bullring was completed.

I had another fascinating walk around town and found a great place for dinner near the river. The place was called Taberna del Río. We kept it light and simple, and it was delicious. I look forward to returning.

Yesterday evening we walked over to El Corte Inglés to buy a new pair of headphones for the piano and to do a small grocery shop. After buying the headphones, San Geraldo headed upstairs to the supermarket while I went to run a couple of errands nearby. We agreed to meet for coffee. He would phone me when he was done.

I went to three different shops and then found a table at a pleasant cafe. I figured I would be mid coffee when SG arrived. Time passed with no SG. I realized I hadn’t asked if he had his phone with him. Sure enough, he finally called and said, “I’m home.” To top it off, he had walked right by the cafe where I was stationed (and had been watching for him to possibly pass). Lesson learned. Again.

Yesterday morning, I took a walk and on my way home stopped at our nearest gym. It’s enormous, with indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, a sauna and spa, multiple large workout rooms, and a beautiful cafe. I joined and am ready to get back in shape.

I told you about our new larger refrigerator. We put a free-standing cabinet where the old refrigerator had been and put the new fridge in that larger space. What I didn’t tell you is that when we opened the door the first time, it hit our new hanging light fixture. The refrigerator is 1-3/4 inches too tall. The light fixture can only be raised another 1-1/2 inches. The electrician will be here this evening to move the light fixture. It’s always something.

La otra tarde, San Geraldo tenía un masaje programado a unos 10 minutos de donde estábamos, así que decidí ir caminando con él, explorar el barrio durante un par de horas y luego quedar para cenar. Cerca estaba la Plaza de la Corredera, la única plaza principal rectangular de Andalucía. ¡Menudo título a la fama!

La primera plaza se construyó allí en el siglo XIV, pero la plaza actual no se construyó hasta 1683. Un edificio grande y hermoso fue originalmente una prisión y la casa del alcalde. Luego fue una fábrica de sombreros. En 1873 se convirtió en un mercado público de alimentos. Se cerró en 1951 debido a las malas condiciones higiénicas y volvió a abrir algunos años después. A lo largo de los siglos, se llevaron a cabo celebraciones alegres e históricas en la plaza. También fue sede de corridas de toros. Ah, y ejecuciones públicas durante la Inquisición española (y algunas después). Se calcula que entre 1639 y 1739 hubo 40 ejecuciones, y entre 1810 y 1812 murieron en la horca o el garrote unas 76 personas. La última ejecución fue en 1838. La última corrida de toros tuvo lugar en 1846, pero eso es sólo porque se terminó una nueva plaza de toros.

Di otro paseo fascinante por la ciudad y encontré un gran lugar para cenar cerca del río. El lugar se llamaba Taberna del Río. Lo mantuvimos ligero y sencillo, y estaba delicioso. Tengo ganas de volver.

Ayer por la tarde fuimos andando a El Corte Inglés para comprar un nuevo par de auriculares para el piano y hacer una pequeña compra. Después de comprar los auriculares, San Geraldo subió al supermercado mientras yo iba a hacer un par de recados cerca. Acordamos encontrarnos para tomar un café. Me llamaría cuando terminara.

Fui a tres tiendas diferentes y luego encontré una mesa en un agradable café. Pensé que estaría a la mitad del café cuando llegara SG. Pasó el tiempo sin SG. Me di cuenta de que no le había preguntado si tenía el teléfono consigo. Efectivamente, finalmente me llamó y dijo: “Estoy en casa”. Para colmo, había pasado por el café donde yo estaba (y había estado esperando a que pasara). Lección aprendida. Una vez más.

Ayer por la mañana, di un paseo y, de camino a casa, paré en nuestro gimnasio más cercano. Es enorme, con piscinas cubiertas y al aire libre, canchas de tenis, sauna y spa, varias salas de ejercicios grandes y una hermosa cafetería. Me uní y estoy lista para volver a ponerme en forma.

Te hablé de nuestro nuevo refrigerador más grande. Colocamos un gabinete independiente donde había estado el refrigerador viejo y pusimos el nuevo refrigerador en ese espacio más grande. Lo que no te dije es que cuando abrimos la puerta la primera vez, golpeó nuestra nueva lámpara colgante. El refrigerador es 4,5 cm más alto. La lámpara solo se puede levantar otras 3,1 cm. El electricista estará aquí esta tarde para mover la lámpara. Siempre hay algo.

• Market of the Corredera.
• Mercado de la Corredera.
• Open 8–2:30, Monday–Saturday.
• Open 8–14:30, lunes–sábado.
• Casas de Ana María Jacinta, right. Publico market, left.
• Casas de Ana María Jacinta, derecha. Mercado publico, izquierda.

Click the thumbnails to enlarge.
Haz clic en las miniaturas para ampliar.

Author: Moving with Mitchell

From Brooklyn, New York; to North Massapequa; back to Brooklyn; Brockport, New York; back to Brooklyn... To Boston, Massachusetts, where I met Jerry... To Marina del Rey, California; Washington, DC; New Haven and Guilford, Connecticut; San Diego, San Francisco, Palm Springs, and Santa Barbara, California; Las Vegas, Nevada; Irvine, California; Sevilla and then Fuengirola, Spain. And now Córdoba.

39 thoughts on “Bullfight, Inquisition, Ole / Corridas, Inquisición, Ole”

  1. Loved the table of friends hanging out while one played the guitar. And you had me with the stand selling wares of wovens straws. Loved the wovens animals and I do believe Pam Demic would wear one of those hats!

    And now I’m just imagining all the hunks you’ll see working out in that big, glorious gym…… me? Oh no dear, I’ll sit and watch with score cards.

    1. Mistress Borghese:
      That group played an even more engaging, energized song where they all were singing and clapping. I wasn’t close enough at that point to get good video. What a way to perk up a day. Pam Demic’s delicate complexion would be well protected under one of those hats. Got back from the gym about a half hour ago. Yeah, lots and lots of hunks! SPANISH hunks, Maddie! Many swarthy. Others, not so.

  2. Cafe culture and the square make my heart go pitter-pat. I can’t wait to see the market in action.

    1. David:
      Maybe I’ll walk over to the market Thursday morning. I would love to see it in action, too. That table of musical people completed the picture.

    1. Debra:
      Well, it was a big building! But I understand it wasn’t uncommon to combine like that. Talk about questionable neighbors.

    1. wickedhamster:
      The wicker work can be found in some tourist spots around town, but I liked what they had there.

  3. The prison and mayor’s house is similar to the rural UK police stations which included a cell and living quarters for the police officer. One building, many uses.
    Too funny about the non meetup! You need a family assistant to coordinate your doings. Boud

    1. Boud:
      I remember those combined-use building throughout history. Jerry always had professional assistants during his career, for as long as we have been together. Whenever I comment on something he doesn’t do, he says, “I had people for that!”

  4. What a wonderful city to explore! LOVE the architecture.
    Communication as we age can get a little tricky……….double checking, I have found, can help.

    1. Jim:
      Nothing to do with age. We were forgetting things long before smart phones. Go for lunch during work, no wallet. Get home, no keys. Park the car, where did I park the car? Walk home, oh crap I drove there, walk back and get the car!

  5. Waiting for the electrician (or someone like him) is the title of a Firesign Theatre album, and is now one of my favorite aphorisms.

    1. Urspo:
      I’ll just listened to the start of Waiting for the Electrician or Someone Like Him. Sounds like something you would enjoy. I might give it a try beyond the first few minutes.

  6. I like the woven animals. A cow and a pig? Either one is really small or the other is really large! Despite being someone who use to hunt, I’m bothered by the tradition of bullfighting.

    1. Kelly:
      I would place the animals differently and seperately because of their size. I hate bullfighting. It will apparently take a while before it’s completely gone from Andalusia.

  7. It’s as if you live on a different planet sometimes. The architecture!
    Executions, eh? People just love to kill other people, especially when they think they have a good rationale to do so. Religion never fails.
    The basket-woven things are very cool. Do you see a lot of those for sale? I guess what I’m asking is- is that a typical art or craft there?
    Ms. Moon

    1. Ms. Moon:
      I hadn’t seen the woven animals until here. They can’t be found everywhere in town, though. But they are around. Religion has been a great justification for a lot of cruelty in the world.

  8. What a beautiful square! I love the straw animal heads — a clever take on a hunting trophy, with no animals harmed. I wonder what happened between 1810 and 1812 to cause so many executions? Seems like it must have been a tumultuous couple of years. Napoleon, maybe? Did he conquer Spain?

    1. Steve:
      There was the famous 2 May 1808 uprising against the French in Madrid that spread around the country. Maybe the later executions were a result. The plaza we lived on in Sevilla was called Dos de Mayo.

  9. You live in such a great place. Beautiful architecture, good cafés and restaurants, a great gym….I want to move to Spain and escape the USA!

    1. Walt the Fourth:
      “if its not the lint in your navel, its a sweatball on the tip of your nose!”

  10. Fantastic stuff! So glad that you like your gym!
    Hey, I’ve been meaning to ask about your ear-related dizziness… is that cleared up, now?

    1. Judy C:
      Funny you should mention the dizziness. My doctor prescribed a nasal spray for 20 days before I went to New York. Morning and night. It worked like a charm. The 20 days have passed and the dizziness is now back. I have another appointment.

  11. La Plaza is always the center of the city/town.
    One of the main sports in any Latin American/ Spanish city is people watch. And what better place than a Café table outside??
    Love the pics.
    And now I wanna go to El Corte Inglés. They do have everything, no?

    XOXO

    1. Sixpence Notthewiser:
      Yes, El Corte Inglés is a great place to shop. Unfortunately, not everything is in one store in Córdoba. There’s another El Corte Inglés we’d have to taxi to (haven’t been there yet) that has a whole slew of things we don’t have at ours. When we first lived in Sevilla, there were five different buildings in our neighborhood alone. And you had to know what departments were in what buildings. But at least there I could walk to them all. There are so many plazas in Córdoba, probably four major ones. But nothing exactly like La Corredera.

  12. The piano wears headphones? Are they noise cancelling headphones so it doesn’t have to listen to itself? I thought SG took apart the piano. I’m confused, but I know I want the anteater at the top. I’m already imagining Princess having a standoff with it.

    Love,
    Janie, who is still catching up

    1. janiejunebug.
      SG took apart the hideous, large, wood piano that was in terrible condition. This is a digital piano, small and sleek. And the headphones means if you don’t want anyone to hear you play, you’re in control. I thought maybe the anteater was a boar. We had a large papier mache pig and a real live yellow-naped Amazon parrot. The parrot had the run of the house when we were around. The first time it saw the pig, it lifted it by its snout and slammed it against the floor a couple of times. I never did get around to finding a nose ring to go in the hole.

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