Except for the religion / A excepción de la religión

La versión en español está después de la versión en inglés.

To be clear, the biceps flex in the top photo was caught by accident. He started talking to the boss guy in the orange vest just as I snapped. I’m not complaining, just explaining. If you don’t know what’s going on in these photos, check out yesterday’s post.

This is the first team of 35 costaleros as they did a practice run carrying nearly 30 concrete blocks to compensate for the weight missing from the unadorned paso. It did not look easy (as you’ll see in the video). Don’t miss the lift with the bounce. And remember, when they march in the actual procession they’ll be carrying a tall statue clad in flowing robes. Maybe more than one statue. There will be flowers and candles, and other adornments, all slightly tippy. Plus, the frame will be completely enclosed in heavy draperies, meaning they’ll be doing all this in the dark. Hence the tiny little steps and the regular commands from the leader. Plus the brass knocker to signal when to lift and when to put down.

We knew someone in Fuengirola who was a costalero a few times. It’s apparently an enormous honor. For me, it would have been a fascinating thing to participate in when I was in my 20s. Oh, except for the religion part. Yeah, that would have been a no.

We met Steve of Shadows and Light and his husband, Dave, for dinner last night. An absolute pleasure. We hope to see them again before they head off for more adventures tomorrow. We met Steve once before in London and not only is he as charming, kind, and interesting as he sounds in his blog, but Dave is all those things as well. We feel very lucky to have been honored with their visit from London. Steve and I somehow forgot to take any pictures, so they’re simply going to have to see us again before they leave tomorrow.

Para que quede claro, la flexión de bíceps en la foto superior fue captada por accidente. Empezó a hablar con el jefe del chaleco naranja justo cuando yo la fotografié. No me quejo, solo explico. Si no saben qué pasa en estas fotos, vean la publicación de ayer.

Este es el primer equipo de 35 costaleros, que hicieron una prueba cargando casí 30 bloques de concreto para compensar el peso que faltaba en el paso sin adornos. No parecía fácil (como verán en el video). No se pierdan el levantamiento con el rebote. Y recuerden, cuando marchen en la procesión, llevarán una estatua alta vestida con túnicas ondulantes. Quizás más de una estatua. Habrá flores, velas y otros adornos, todos ligeramente inclinados. Además, la estructura estará completamente cubierta por pesadas cortinas, lo que significa que harán todo esto en la oscuridad. De ahí los pasitos diminutos y las órdenes constantes del líder. Además, la aldaba de bronce para indicar cuándo levantar y cuándo bajar.

Conocimos a alguien en Fuengirola que fue costalero varias veces. Al parecer, es un gran honor. Para mí, habría sido fascinante participar cuando tenía veintitantos. Ah, excepto por la parte de la religión. Sí, eso habría sido un no.

Anoche cenamos con Steve de Shadows and Light y su marido, Dave. Fue un placer. Esperamos volver a verlos antes de que se vayan de aventuras mañana. Ya conocimos a Steve en Londres y no solo es tan encantador, amable e interesante como parece en su blog, sino que Dave también lo es. Nos sentimos muy afortunados de haber tenido el honor de contar con su visita desde Londres. Steve y yo olvidamos tomar fotos, así que tendrán que volver a vernos antes de irse mañana.

Author: Moving with Mitchell

From Brooklyn, New York; to North Massapequa; back to Brooklyn; Brockport, New York; back to Brooklyn... To Boston, Massachusetts, where I met Jerry... To Marina del Rey, California; Washington, DC; New Haven and Guilford, Connecticut; San Diego, San Francisco, Palm Springs, and Santa Barbara, California; Las Vegas, Nevada; Irvine, California; Sevilla and then Fuengirola, Spain. And now Córdoba.

38 thoughts on “Except for the religion / A excepción de la religión”

  1. How nice to spend time with Steve and Dave! I can’t imagine taking all those little steps in the dark while carrying that load. Do you know how far they go?

    Love,
    Janie

    1. janiejunebug:
      Some processions last for 12 hours, but the costalero teams regularly switch out. Seeing Steve and Dave again today was wonderful.

    1. David:
      It’s hard work, but the guys who do it seem to love it… and the beer they have after their shifts.

  2. Yeah, yeah, yeah, honour and devotion. OR a perfect visual representation of slavery to religion, shuffling along in the pitch black while carrying an unimaginable load of oppression? Eye of the beholder, I guess.

    1. Debra:
      Ok, well that’s really what I meant. I just couldn’t find the right words. I’m fascinated by the spectacle and tend to get upset by what it all signifies. You spoke for many other readers!

  3. This is amazing to see. How far do they walk, or creep, with this platform load? It’s also amazing what’s considered an honor! Boud

    1. Boud:
      Some processions last for 12 hours, but the costalero teams switch out regularly. I’m not sure how long they usually go, but they are covered in sweat when they come out from under and they immediately grab a beer.

  4. Yes. I do believe Debra summed it all up very nicely. But to each our own, right? I think they could monetize this whole thing by charging onlookers at the practice process. I mean…
    The flexed bicep? Excellent and timely capture.
    Ms. I-Do-Enjoy-A-Nice-Arm

    1. Ms. I-Do-Enjoy-A-Nice-Arm:
      I was happily surprised when I saw that photo after the fact. Charging onlookers is what would be done in the States. So, I guess it will reach here one of these days.

    1. ellen abbott:
      Yes, that bounce is part of their specific routine. Everything is locked down, but it’s still takes everyone’s breath away.

    1. Tundra Bunny:
      There are finally female costaleros, although they’re clearly not as common. Still, progress, is you can call it that.

  5. I didn’t know there were guys under it as well as around it. Of course, I’d be tempted to pick out the hottest ones (like Mr Bicep), dress then in short leather loincloths, and yolk them to the front of the float. But I imagine the more pious in the crowd might object to that… but it would attract attention.

    1. wickedhamster:
      Some pasos are carried only around the sides. But the larger ones (most of them) require rows of people underneath. In Sevilla, as an example, the population during Semana Santa increases from 700+ thousand to nearly 2 million. Imagine if the costaleros wore loin cloths!

  6. Fascinating to watch decked out in a procession, but I could never handle the close quarters and oppresiviness. I can show my devotion other ways.

    There’d better be a photo from one of you tomorrow!

  7. I can see how it would be a great honor, but at the same time it looks miserable. Can you imagine being in the center underneath that platform, in the dark and surrounded by shuffling bodies? No thank you! I too like Debra’s interpretation. Of course if we’d grown up with this tradition and seen our forebears do it before us we’d all feel differently, I suppose.

    I’m eagerly awaiting a second opportunity for picture-taking! 🙂

    1. Steve:
      We miss you terribly. Hope all was well on the train! And, no, I can’t imagine being under there in the first place, but to be in the middle would be truly disconcerting.

  8. I, like Debra and many of your other readers, loathe religion, all it stands for, and all the harm it has done – yet the sheer spectacle of a parade like this (even just at the practice stage) is impressive… Jx

    1. Kirk:
      The costaleros come out from below red-faced, soaked in sweat, with blistered hands, and necks and shoulders rubbed raw.

  9. Right there with you – interesting to watch but nothing I would probably participate in. Too… “The Godfather II” for my taste. I’m also at an age where I can’t lift something overtly heavy without passing gas. I can only imaging multiplying that by… 30… and then adding the notion of an open flame near by.

    “Oh! The HUMANITY! The Virgin Mary BURST in a massive fire ball!!”

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